<![CDATA[Certified Dog Training | Naperville, Il

<![CDATA[Certified Dog Training | Naperville, Il - Blog]]>Tue, 10 Oct 2023 11:48:12 -0500Weebly<![CDATA[Ninja Socialization]]>Thu, 23 Apr 2020 22:08:10 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/ninja-socialization

Did you get a “Quarantine Puppy”? If so, you are most likely concerned about socialization during this time of social distancing. So let’s talk...

Socialization is not about meeting tons of random strangers and dogs. It’s about creating good experiences and exposing puppies to new environments, surfaces, and other stimuli. Yes, exposing to people/dogs is part of that but it’s only a small part. The rest comes down to building confidence and teaching the dog how to work through potential stress. Here’s 6 ways you can help socialize your new pup while still maintaining social distancing.

Exposure to new surfaces. Have your dog walk on as many different surfaces as possible. Start easy with different floors at home, pavement, grass, stones, mulch, dirt, etc. Then build up to things like walking across a board, yoga mat, tarp, cardboard, empty plastic kiddie pool or other semi normal surfaces. Last build up to surfaces that make noise or move. Surfaces such as bubble wrap or a sheet on top of aluminum foil.
Exposure to sounds. Look up sounds on YouTube like storms, fireworks, baby sounds, warehouse sounds, etc. Play them while you are playing with the pup or while they are eating. Start with the volume really low and gradually increase the volume. This will help to create positive associations with those sounds and help normalize them.
Find novel objects like statues, holiday decorations and other things that may be scary and create a positive association. Don’t force the pup to go straight up to it. Instead, walk in a curve and slowly get closer and closer. As you get close, toss treats towards the object so the pup is enticed to get closer but is never forced.
Hangout on your driveway on nice days while all the people/dogs are walking by. This helps the pup learn that people and dogs are not scary and nothing bad will happen. Be sure to have lots of high value treats available. Every time a person/dog walks by, give your pup lots of treats. This will also help with focus work later on.
Play dress up. You or your family members can dress up in funky hats, costumes, hair styles, etc. This will help prepare your pup for the world of unique personalities and styles.
Build confidence through training. Most dogs with behavior issues, lack confidence. If a dog is confident, they are likely to be able to work through the stress of new dogs/people. Cloud K9 Academy is offering online fusion program to help ensure your pup grows into a happy well behaved dog. For more information, visit HERE.

Remember keep things fun. The idea is to build confidence, not force the puppies into uncomfortable situations. If you notice your pup is stressed, back off and try again later at a slower pace. Also, be sure to download our FREE Puppy e-Book available HERE.

]]><![CDATA[Crate Train Fido]]>Tue, 24 Feb 2015 21:28:36 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/crate-train-fido

What are we trying to achieve?

-A dog that happily goes to his crate the instant you ask him to ‘go to bed’
-A dog that happily settles in his crate for up to 4 hours on end, with minimum distress and boredom
-A dog that is successful and happy in its new environment

Why Bother?

A crate can be useful for many reasons. A crate is a safe place for a puppy or new dog to be when they are unsupervised. It also keeps the dog out of trouble. Crate training is also an essential tool in potty training. The crate can also be a safe place to keep the puppy from becoming overwhelmed with visiting people or dogs. It is also a familiar place for a dog during a vet stay or during transport. This can help to reduce anxiety in unfamiliar situations.

Our Method

To get a dog happily going to the crate is taught with 5 gradual steps without intimidation. Stay at the same step until your dog is reliably performing that step 8 out of 10 times. Spend time on the first steps and this will help you in the long run. Remember to keep it positive and fun.

Final Tips

· Do not make a fuss when he goes out after a longer period. It’s not like he had a stint in jail. He just went to his bedroom for a bit, and you are teaching him that it’s perfectly mundane and safe.
· When you come back, hang around a little so that your return doesn’t mean the door instantly flies open. Just flip through a magazine for a few seconds.
· Be careful what you leave in the crate. Make sure it won’t splinter or tear apart.
· Keep the crate positive. Do not use it as a punishment.
· If the dog cannot be in crated in a separate room yet, crate it in the bedroom until it is ready to be separated. This will decrease the chances of the dog developing separation anxiety.
· Even if the crate training is well established, don’t forget to reward your dog with attention/treats, etc. whenever he’s in his crate, especially if he is calm.
· For further information contact Rachel Fein (rachel@cloudk9academy.com)

]]><![CDATA[The Dog That Changed My World]]>Fri, 06 Feb 2015 00:40:42 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/the-dog-that-changed-my-world

I know a lot of people out there think that all trainers' dogs are good and easy. That person might be you. You might think that everything we demonstrate is very easy because our dogs must be so well trained and love to work. While our dogs are well trained, it doesn't mean it is easy. A lot of us take on dogs with troubled pasts. We take on the difficult dogs. I want to give you a little background on my dog Kali.

I got her at three months old. She already had a history of abuse. She was extremely fearful. She wouldn't even go through a doorway carpet to carpet. For the first three months I had her, I had to carry her down two flights of stairs just to take her out. Imagine trying to potty train a dog that is afraid to go through a doorway. She was completely shut down to the point of stress induced epilepsy. She was incredibly hand shy and just afraid of everything. The next few years were an emotional rollercoaster. I was determined to help her and give her a happy life. With patience I slowly built her confidence. When she was about a year old, I started her in agility classes. At the time, I had no intention of ever competing. I just thought it would be fun. Agility really helped build her confidence. By the time she was two years old, she was off all epilepsy medication. She even became a therapy dog. When she was four, we started competing in agility competitions. By the age of seven, she was an agility champion.

Around that time is when I started the Karen Pryor Professional Program. I used Kali throughout that program. It was then, that I saw her reach her true potential. Clicker training changed her in ways I never dreamed possible. To watch her change right before my eyes was incredible. She now exudes confidence. She has become the most stable dog I could ever imagine. She has become my demo dog.

This blog is not to brag or anything like that. I just want to encourage all you that have fearful or shut down dogs. This is what's possible. Kali took a lot of time, patience and love but in the end it was all worth it. She went from a scared shut down dog to a balanced demo dog.

]]><![CDATA[Adventures in Reactivity with My Dog Flash]]>Fri, 18 Jul 2014 16:10:42 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/adventures-with-a-reactive-dogBy: Rachel Fein, KPA CTP, CTDI

It all started February 16th, 2013 when a litter of border collie puppies were born in Minnesota. Everything seemed great. As the litter matured, I knew exactly which puppy I wanted. She was smart and high drive. She was working from the time she was six weeks old and she was fearless. Or so we thought. The day came to pick her up. I drove up to Minnesota and brought her home. I named her Flash. She immediately took a liking to my other dogs. I enrolled her in puppy class and began the enormous task of socializing this young pup. I was determined to do everything right. She was enrolled in three different puppy classes; AKC Star Puppy, Puppy Kindergarten and Puppy Socialization. I was bringing her along to agility classes and taking her all over. I was bound and determined to do things right with her.

Then one day she was hurt by another puppy in class. From that day forward, everything had changed. You see the weeks 6-12 are the most important time in a puppy’s life. It is time they are most impressionable. Flash learned in those short few seconds that dogs would hurt her. She quickly developed a fear of dogs. I was working really hard with her and she seemed to be doing better. Then at six months she got her first rabies vaccine. That’s when she started to spiral downhill. She could not be within 100 yards of another dog without barking and lunging. The vet called it rabies vaccinosis. We tried a detox and herbal supplements but nothing seemed to matter. One day in agility class, we were finishing up a run and one of my classmates took her dog out of its crate. The dog didn’t do anything wrong, but Flash charged it. Luckily she did not bite but it was the last straw for me. Something had to be done.

We decided to put her on a low dose of Prozac. That’s when things finally started to improve. The Prozac made it so Flash had at least a little bit of a threshold. She could see a dog in the distance and not react. This allowed me to start actually working with her and helping her get over her fear. There was finally HOPE. This began the long and bumpy road to recovery.

In the beginning I started with a combination of methods. I did BAT setups with other dogs that I trusted. I also worked heavily on auto-checkins in situations where I knew there would be other dogs, like agility class.

The first BAT setup went well but we could not get close. The second time I decided to have Flash do some following instead of just approaching the dog. This worked wonderfully. By the end, both dogs were walking next to each other and hanging out. It was an emotional time for me. I cried tears of joy because this is when I knew anything was possible. After that the setups became shorter and shorter. She was finally starting to make some doggy friends.

While she was making friends with calm and soft dogs; motion and hard dogs still set her off. So I started sitting outside the agility ring while other dogs were running and rewarding every time she checked in with me. At first she needed to be really far away. But slowly we were able to get closer and closer.

Last night Flash showed me just how much the hard work has paid off. We sat right outside the agility ring with another dog running and she did not react at all. She was getting a lot of treats but she was earning them by making wonderful choices. Then after class she was hangout in the lobby with another dog. She even said hello a few times. We kept the interactions short but she did wonderfully.

Flash has gone from a dog that couldn’t be within a hundred yards of another dog to a dog that can interact with other dogs. The work is not done yet but she had made huge improvement. We will get past this.

]]><![CDATA[Cloud K9 Travels Part 2]]>Thu, 17 Jul 2014 18:15:02 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/cloud-k9-travels-part-2BAT Instructor Certification Workshop

With Grisha Stewart

By: Rachel Fein, KPA CTP, CTDI

The second week of traveling was spent at the New York BAT Instructor Certification Workshop. This was an amazing experience. BAT is short for Behavior Adjustment Training. It is a protocol that Grisha Stewart came up with to help her dog Peanut become more comfortable with other dogs. Its main purpose is to help reactive dogs and frustrated greeters. However, it is now being used to socialize puppies and in every day training. The most important thing when working with reactive dogs is to keep the dog under threashold. This means that we stay far enough away from triggers (things that upset the dog) so that the dog can make appropriate decisions while learning about the environment. In BAT we empower the dog to make its own decisions. We want to set the dog up for success. The overall purpose is to decensitize the dog to its triggers by creating positive experiences.

We spent the first day going over the amazing leash skills that Grisha Stewart came up with herself in addition to reviewing the basics of BAT. Did you know that dogs communicate through body language? Whenever you are working with a dog it is very important to pay attention to its body language. Dogs show stress in a variety of ways; posture, speed, ear position, lip licking, yawning, tail position, eye contact, stiff/loose bodies. Note: tail wagging does not always mean a happy dog. In BAT we also use a 10-15 foot snap leash with a back clip harness. The back clip harness allows the dog freedom of movement and help prevent the dog from getting tangled. The longer leash allows the dog to explore the environment and also helps to keep the leash loose which is a vital component when working with a reactive dog. A tight leash signals to a dog that there is something to react to. During the workshop we learned how to shorten and lengthen the leash in a safe way. We also learned skills such as following, sliding, mime pulling and slow stops. To learn more about these skills contact your nearest CBATI.

The second day we got to try out our leash skills on the decoy dogs. These are dogs that are solid and used when doing a BAT Setup. It was a hot day so the dogs got tired fast but it was great practice. Its important to try out new skills on a solid dog before trying them with a reactive dog. It is also important to practice the skills without triggers present so ensure the setups go smoothly.

The third day we got to meet our clients and teach them the leash skills without dogs present. My groups client was great. He was very open to everything we had to say and he learned quickly. Because he has two reactive dogs in the household we expressed the importance of walking the dogs seperately. This is so they do not feed off of each other. He caught on to the leash skills quickly so we had fun testing his skills. I even got to pretend to be a dog. He passed every test I threw at him with flying colors.

The fourth day we finally got to do BAT Setups with our clients dogs. We started off with fake dogs as decoy dogs. Fake dogs look like real dogs from a distance. This is a safe way to work with a dog that needs a lot of space. The fake dogs won't move around which can help set your dog up for success. It's also a great way to practice BAT without the danger of having another dog present. During BAT Setups we micromanage the environment so that we don't have to micromanage the dog. Our client dog started off a little stressed and was trying to get out the gate and back to her sister. We decided it would be best to move to the other side of the field to reduce the stress levels. After that, everything went smoothly. We kept the session short so that we could end on a really good note.

The last day we did BAT Setups with live decoy dogs. We knew to start from the other side of the field so we did that from the beginning. Since we were using a live dog this time we had to increase the distance a little bit. This is because of live dog is not completely still like a fake dog is. The setup went great and we all learned a lot. We had some really great BAT moments. After we were done the client could not say enough about how much he loved the new style of handling. He said he was definitely going to use his new skills to help work with his dogs.

The workshop was a once in a lifetime experience. I learned a great deal and I am excited to bring that knowledge back to my clients.

To learn more about BAT or if you need help with your reactive dog please contact Cloud K9 Academy.

]]><![CDATA[Cloud K9 Travels Part 1]]>Mon, 07 Jul 2014 00:05:33 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/cloud-k9-travels-part-1PVybe Disc Dog Camp

w/ Ron Watson and Apryl Lea

By: Rachel Fein, KPA CTP, CTDI

For the past three weeks I traveled the country extending my knowledge of dog training. The first week I had the privilege of attending the Pawsitive Vybe Disc Dog Camp with Ron Watson and Apryl Lea. We spent four days working on everything from setup moves to throwing to advanced tricks like vaulting. Each day we worked on throwing and foundation. By the end, my throwing improved dramatically. We also had the opportunity to jam with our dogs. Each day we worked on different moves. The first day I worked mostly on throwing, directional feeding and setting the flank. The second day we worked more on throwing, the PVybe Ribbon, and oppositional feeding and we even did a Jam In A Flash session. I also learned to throw right and throw left. The third day we worked on creative throwing, vault tosses, flips and flag & flash overs. We also learned to Jenga. The last day we learned air bounces, body rolls, fidgets, scoots, and dog catches. By the end my brain was fried, my muscles were sore and I was filled with memories and knowledge. Overall it was a great experience and we learned a lot. Ron and Apryl are great trainers and even better people. I hope to do this each year.

Leg Vault

Flag & Flash Over

Air Bounce

Pictures courtesy of Vicki Martin

]]><![CDATA[The "Balanced" Trainer Debate]]>Tue, 13 May 2014 19:59:42 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/the-balanced-trainer-debateBy: Rachel Fein, KPA CTP, CTDI

When I say, I am a Force Free Trainer, many people think I am a tree hugger, hippie or that I am just too soft on the dogs. However, my methods are based in science versus intimidation. In the very simplest of terms, I use operant conditioning to get a dog to perform a certain behavior. In other words, the dog WANTS to perform the behavior. Operant conditioning is defined as a type of learning in which an individual's behavior is modified by its antecedents and consequences. With Force Free training, the antecedent is the cue and the consequence is either a reward (treat, toy, praise, etc.) or the withholding of a reward. The dog quickly learns that performing the behavior gets them something good.

B.F. Skinner is considered the father of positive reinforcement training. “Skinner showed how positive reinforcement worked by placing a hungry rat in his Skinner box. The box contained a lever in the side and as the rat moved about the box it would accidentally knock the lever. Immediately it did so a food pellet would drop into a container next to the lever. The rats quickly learned to go straight to the lever after a few times of being put in the box. The consequence of receiving food if they pressed the lever ensured that they would repeat the action again and again.” (Saul McLeod).

By using positive reinforcement of desired behaviors we are able to increase the frequency of that behavior. For example, if we want we the dog to walk at our side, we reward whenever it is by our side. We also withhold rewards when it is not by our side. The dog learns that if it stays by our side, it will get rewarded. Another example is the SIT behavior. SIT is a behavior dogs offer naturally. If we reward the dog for sitting it will start to offer the behavior more frequently in hopes of getting a reward. Once the dog is offering the sit reliably we can put a cue on it. You then have the SIT behavior on cue. By using positive reinforcement methods, dogs learn to offer behaviors. This allows us to train any behavior that a dog can physically perform.

On the flip side is punishment based methods. These methods use fear, pain and intimidation to make a dog perform a certain behavior. In other words, the dog is too afraid to do anything else. Many “Balanced Trainers” say that they use a combination of both reinforcement based training and punishment based training. They use positive reinforcement at the same time as using correction words and tools such as choke chains, prong collars or shock collars. While I understand the allure of those methods and the desire for quick results without a lot of work, I am here to tell you that they will cause more harm than good. I am not here to brow beat you and tell you that by using those methods you are being cruel to your animal. I am here to explain why those methods should not be used.

With aversive methods, dogs become afraid to offer behaviors. They are afraid if they offer the wrong behavior they will get punished. This makes it impossible to capture or shape behaviors, thus, stunting the learning process of the dog.

Many people will only punish once a dog learns a cue. However, if you use punishment in the proofing process you run the risk of poisoning the cue (creating a negative association). This will undo all the hard work you have already done.

In addition, as stated by the VCA Animal Hospitals, aversive methods have been proven to cause behavioral issues such as fear and aggression. Punishment based methods by definition create negative associations. For example, if you punish a dog for barking at another dog, you are creating a negative association of dogs. The more it happens the stronger that association becomes. Slowly but surely you create a dog that is afraid of other dogs. Even worse, over time, you can create a negative association with yourself. The better solution would be to reward the dog for being quiet in the presence of other dogs. This teaches the dog the appropriate behavior.

I will leave you with one last thought. Force Free Training creates a happy dog that willfully performs desired behaviors.

To learn more about Force Free Training contact Cloud K9 Academy

]]><![CDATA[Introduction to Clicker Training]]>Tue, 13 May 2014 18:05:29 GMThttp://cloudk9academy.com/blog/introduction-to-clicker-trainingHave you heard the term clicker training? Do you know what it is referring to? This article will explain the basics of clicker training.

First, clicker training is a positive reinforcement method. What that means is that we do not use punishment. We use only positive reinforcers. The first step is to obtain a clicker. These can be obtained from any pet supply store. Just ask for a clicker. You also want to have lot of soft training treats that can be broken into very small pieces. You can also use things like hot dogs, chicken, steak, or anything else that your dog really loves. Next, you need you decide what behaviors you want to teach you dog. For the purpose of explaining we will use SIT as the new behavior. You then watch for the dog to do that behavior. Most dogs will offer sits naturally throughout the day. When you see the rear end of the dog start to lower, click the clicker. This will “mark” the behavior or tell the dog what it did right. After you mark the behavior you give your dog a reward (treat, game of tug, attention). Keep repeating this routine until the dog is confidently repeating the behavior. This shows that the dog knows exactly what is earning the reward. You can then add the “cue” word SIT. Eventually you can add more and more distractions, duration and distance. You will get lightning fast sits all by using a clicker.

Clicker training is just one of many forms of training. However, I feel it is the most effective way to train an animal. With clicker training you will see accelerated learning. Your dog will learn things much quicker than with other methods. It allows you to mark the exact moment a behavior happens. Therefore, there is no confusion for the dog as to what you are reinforcing. In other words, the dog doesn’t have to figure out what it did right after 10 different behaviors. It will also remember what it has learned years later. Most importantly it will strengthen the bond you have with your dog. You will also be able to teach your dog behaviors you never dreamed possible. The possibilities are endless with clicker training. It allows both you and your dog to be creative. Last, it is fun for both you and the dog. Some dogs will even find clickers and bring them to you because they love clicker training so much.

You may ask, “Why not just use a word, like, Good Dog or Yes. While these can be good if you do not have a clicker around to use, a clicker is better. The clicker is a distinct sound. It tells the dog EXACTLY what behavior earned them a reward. Using words is not a quick and not as distinct. It is also proven that clickers fire neurons in the brain that using words do not fire. This means that clickers will produce quicker learning.

So let’s review the three basic steps in clicker trainer. First, get the behavior. Second, mark the behavior. Third, reinforce (reward) the behavior.

Give clicker training a try. You will not be sorry. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact Cloud K9 Academy.

]]>